Occupation is Not Our Judaism

            I am finding it hard to put into words what I have been seeing, hearing, learning, experiencing, feeling.  During an activity this evening with Center for Jewish Nonviolence director Ilana Sumka about nonviolence as a personal/spiritual practice, Ilana asked us to start by going around the group and saying two words that described how we were feeling after today.  My words were horrified and rejuvenated.  I feel horrified after seeing the 12-meter wall that surrounds Bethlehem to keep Palestinians out of Israel, after hearing stories of violence and manipulation, and after visiting the recently demolished homes in part of the village of Susiya.  I feel rejuvenated after seeing the resilience of individuals and communities in Palestinian villages and from being surrounded by an insightful, strong, and dedicated group of Jews fighting to end the occupation.

            My head is spinning with facts – I am learning a lot about what it actually means that there is an occupation; many facts about settlements, Israeli and Palestinian history; and nonviolence.  I hope to write more about all of these at a later time, when I am not as exhausted.  For now, I want to share a little about what we have been doing since arriving in Bethlehem on Sunday morning (less than 48 hours ago, hard to believe!) and who is part of the group.  We are an intergenerational group of 45 people from 7 different countries, representing many different movements of Judaism and activist organizations.  It is an incredible group of people that really cares about each other and about learning about and ending the occupation.  It is remarkable to be part of a group where I don’t have to worry about my politics and am free to ask questions and discuss honestly.  In standing in solidarity with Palestinians, we are also cultivating an inclusive and inspiring Jewish community.

            On Sunday afternoon we spent time touring Bethlehem, where we are staying.  One might expect that the Church of the Nativity would draw many tourists to Bethlehem; however our tour guide, Elias, explained that tourists that do visit only come for an hour and jump on and off the tour bus.  This means that Bethlehem’s economy suffers.  As we toured, Elias pointed out various streets that used to thrive with commerce and have essentially shut down – people are scared to come to Bethlehem.  In addition to walking through the heart of Bethlehem and seeing many shops and restaurants, peace centers and churches, we walked along the 12-meter tall, concrete wall that divides Jerusalem from Bethlehem.  The wall made me feel claustrophobic, we were closed in and could not see the rolling hills beyond.  What must it feel like to live behind walls like this?  Elias described it as an open air prison – furthering this concept by sharing that all Palestinians must carry their ID cards everywhere they go and can only go into Israel if they get a permit in advance and must have a “good” reason to visit Israel, such as work or a doctor’s visit – it is very hard to obtain a permit.  Despite all this, there was obvious resilience from the Palestinians that live behind these walls.  There was lots of graffiti on the walls that said things like “Free Palestine” and “Embody Solidarity.”  There were also banners with stories of Palestinians on the walls, designed by an Arab-Palestinian NGO, which were powerful to read.

Standing next to the wall in Bethlehem

            On Monday, we spent the morning at Umm al-Khair, a Palestinian village of about 100 people in the South Hebron Hills where we helped to till fields so that they will be ready to plant za’atar.  This village sits against the settlement of Carmel and it is shocking to see the big houses of the settlement and the waving Israeli flags through the fence.  Umm al-Khair has many demolition notices for its buildings – it is unclear if and when these demolitions will happen, but it is a possibility at any moment.  However, we are planting so that it will be harder for the Israeli Civil Authority to justify demolishing these homes.  Despite the hard work, hot sun, and desperate situation, our hosts smiled, sang, danced, and celebrated (especially when they found out that one of the boys in the village passed his matriculation exams and will be able to apply to go to university).

            Monday afternoon, we visited the Palestinian villages of Susiya and AL-Twani.  Susiya is a divided village with the settlement of Susiya right in the middle.  The settlement is on the grid, which means they get water and electricity.  Susiya is not.  Most Palestinian villages use solar and wind power and collect rain water and/or bring in water.  A staggering fact is that the UN says that health code requires that there be 100 liters of water per person per day available; however, the settlements have enough water for 450 liters per person per day, while the near by Palestinian villages have between 20 and 70 liters of water per person per day available.  This is just one illustration (and concrete number) that shows the deep divide between the treatment of Israelis and Palestinians. 

            In Susiya we also saw recently demolished homes and rebuilding efforts of these families.  We talked about the trauma that one goes through when they see their home demolished and the importance of rebuilding.  We saw the rubble and the concrete slabs covered by a tent that serves as a home.  We were welcomed by a family who smiled and gave us candy, despite what they have been through.

Recently demolished homes in Susiya

            There are so many symbols of the occupation that we saw throughout the day.  It is upsetting and dehumanizing for the people that live under it.  I am so thankful to be part of the Center for Jewish Nonviolence – for the chance to learn, to see, and to fight for a future of freedom and dignity for all.

            I’ll write soon – it’s 11 pm and I have to be ready to work in the hot fields again tomorrow, with breakfast at 6 am!

P.S. Check out the Center for Jewish Nonviolence’s Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/CenterForJewishNonviolence/ - we will post updates, pictures, and videos there as well!